Substitute & Interchangeable Parts
Owning a Triumph can be costly when it comes to purchasing parts. And some parts are not made will while others are no longer available. That is why we built this page. It lists the non-Triumph parts found by clever owners that will work just as well, if not better.
Most, if not all entries on this page, were sent by Spitfire & GT6 magazine readers. We try to double check that the information is correct or as clear as possible but are not always able.
This page will stay in a constant state of construction. If you have any info that you would like to add to this page, please email us.
| Engine | part | replacement | notes |
| carbon canister | 1971 Oldsmobile Firenza | carbon canister, three hose version, made by Coopers in the UK – identical to a late Spit | |
| carbs (Zenith Stromberg) | SU’s from MGB or Mini | 72-74 MGB’s used a SU HIF4 carb (1 1/2″). They have four mounting holes. You can also use a HS2 from a Mini from the early 70’s. They have diagonal mounting holes that will line up with the holes on the single Zenith intake manifold. I read about this conversion somewhere. Anyone done it? Let me know how it went.Update: the MG was either a twin HS4 (1.5″) or HS6 (1.75″) carbs. HS4 carbs have 2 diagonal holes, HS6 and larger have 4 as far as I know – And all HiFs have 4. The HS2 as found on Minis and many other small BMC/ BL cars is a 1.25″ carb. It is also easily identified by the mounting holes being vertical, not diagonal!NEW! Here is a link to more info. | |
| carbs (Hitachi SU) | early datsun 240z | Hitachi SU slight tweak on mounting holes easy setup and available parts More info to come… | |
| choke cable | universal choke cable | If you want to convert from auto to manual choke (which I recommend), and don’t want to pay $80 for one I suggest going to your auto parts store (Autozone in my case), and in the “HELP!” section they should have a few different types of cable. One of them even has everything you would need to convert for about 15-$20, I got the cable by itself for $6 and fabricated my own linkage and brackets. Just remove the auto choke housing and from there you can see how it works and what u need to make it work. Its simple to do and much more functional than the automatic choke. | |
| con-rod bolts | Ford Sierra Cosworth | very strong bolts for racing, $34 a set, these bolt straight in! As used by top Spitfire UK racer Jon Wolfe, use standard torque when tightening these up. | |
| distributor | 75 and up MGB and Midget | Lucas 45D or 45D4 distributor is a straight swap, fits 75 and up (earlier ?). 25D will also fit. | |
| EGR blanking plug | 1930 Model A Ford oil drain plug | When you remove the egr valve you need a plug that is not easily found. On the Ford the oil drain plug is a perfect fit. Size is 3/4 x 24 fine thread. | |
| electronic ignition (GT6 MKIII) | Nissan 1400 LDV (New Zealand) | This is a straight fit. Only mod is to fit spade connectors to the wiring harness. Ignition includes switch. | |
| electronic ignition (late 1500’s) | Rover Metro/Maestro’s | the electronic system from certain Metro/Maestro can be fitted very cheaply as it can be obtained from scrapyards, the contactless system can be fitted directly to the existing distributor so the correct centrifugal/vacuum advance is used. In actual fact you should be having little trouble with the existing points setup. | |
| electronic ignition CEI ignition box (75-80 only) | standard 4-pin GM Ignition Module part number TP45SB for 1980 Chev. Chevette w/1.6 L engine. | Take the box off the firewall, pull the screws off of the back of the box, pop the panel off, and there it is, a GM 4-pin ignition module (along with a capacitor and a zener diode…). Switch the wires from the old one to the new one (straight swap, spade connections), apply the conductive goo (usually included) to the back of the new module, and carefully secure the new module. Further note, watch all the grounds ( be aware that the GM module body grounds to the Lucas box which grounds to the car body). | |
| electronic ignition CEI ignition box (75-80 only) | 1980 Chevrolet Camaro 229 V-6 with HEI 4 wire module | The original 1975 to 1980 CEI ignition amplifier contained internally a GM ignition module used in the 1980 Chevrolet Camaro with a 229 V-6. This module is a standard HEI 4 wire ignition module and is readily available at most stores. | |
| engine (1500) | MG Midget Mk IV | The engines are identical, despite the fact that the MG version had an entirely different set of part numbers to the Triumph version – it must have taken a genius to decide on that policy. | |
| engine (GT6) | TR6 engine block | GT6 & TR6 used the same block but had different heads and crank/rods/pistons. A piston/con rod/crank swap will add 500cc’s! | |
| fuel pump block off plate | Big Block Chevy | The plate is a bit longer, but the studs match and it seals completely | |
| fuel tank float | 94 Ford Ranger (and probably all in that year style’s range | I work at a mechanic’s shop, and as we were replacing the fuel tank on my 74 Spitfire 1500, we noticed that the float was bad. Our lead mechanic exclaimed, “Hey, I just replaced that in my Ford Ranger two days ago.” Straight swap, and obviously cheap. | |
| head (1300cc) | Triumph Toledo | a late Toledo head (218141 – 8.5 with 1296cc) or a late Mk IV head (218142). These heads have the biggest standard inlet valves, and will increase BHP at the top end More info about head swaps | |
| head (GT6) | TR6 head | I put a TR6 head onto my GT6 block. Straight-up match. The only hitch, you have to use the TR6 manifold gasket. | |
| head nuts | Rover Metro | straight swap | |
| intake and exhaust manifolds | 1500cc & 1300cc Spitfire | 1300 and 1500 heads were made from the same casting so manifolds are interchangeable | |
| oil filter (cars with spin on filters and adapters) | Autolite FL400S Fram 2870A Fram 3600 Purolator L10017 | – | |
| oil filter (cars with spin on filters) | Ford V8 filter (Fram TG3600) | “I have always (for the last 25 years) used the Ford V-8 filter, with an adapter. (old # PF-1, etc.) It’s a large filter, with lot’s of surface area for cooling the oil, and holds a full quart of oil, extra capacity without a custom oil pan. For those with clearance problems (the Ford filter sticks out a bit), use a Purolator L10017. It’s like a shorter bodied version of the Ford filter, same base, threads, etc. It’s good if you use a sandwich type oil cooler adapter.” | |
| oil pressure switch (1296cc) | Chevy | an oil pressure switch from a 1970 Chevy 250 cubic inch 6 cyl motor for $2.99 will work on a 1296 cc motor. | |
| oil pressure switch (1500cc) | GM | NAPA’s Echlin #OP6610 is a direct replacement for the three connector switch for 1500’s with the anti-run-on valve | |
| oil pressure switch (1500cc) | Chevrolet Monza 79,77-76 Vega 77-76,74-71 Oldsmobile Starfire 79-76 Pontiac Astre 76 Sunbird 78,76 Ventura 75 | Oil Pressure Switch part #PS-64. It is made by Standard Motor Products Inc. | |
| pistons (competition 1200cc) | Cooper S pistons | reboring to 70.6 mm, you can fit Mahle flat top forged Cooper S pistons (GR2) Shorten the skirt. | |
| pistons (1300cc) | Ford Fiesta pistons | Engine capacity can be increased to 1350cc by boring out to + 60 (Ford Fiesta pistons can be used but anything bigger than +60 can lead to head gasket problems) and this will increase the torque. If high-compression pistons are used, lower compression head will need to be fitted otherwise excessive pinking See Head Swaps page | |
| rod bearings (1500’s) | “Clevite 77″ MGB rod bearings, Part #Clevite CB792P, in .010” undersize. | File the outside edge of the locating tang on the bearings to fit the bearings to the rods. Also, it is recommended grinding the crank to 1.8665″ (about .009″) to get a .002″ clearance (from 1500 competition prep manual) | |
| throttle cable | bicycle brake cable | bike shops stock long cables, housing of any length – helpful when converting to Weber carb setup | |
| valve cover (GT6) | TR6 valve cover | TR6 and GT6 valve covers are interchangeable Straight bolt up, except that most aftermarket ones lack the groove to hold the gasket, as well as some emissions hoses need to be changed since aftermarket covers’ blow-by hose comes out in the middle, rather than towards the front. |
| Cooling | part | replacement | notes |
| electric fan relay | NAPA acc relay AR274 | straight swap | |
| electric fan thermostatic switch (79-80 Spitfire) | 78 Volkswagen Golf fan switch | straight swap | |
| fan clutch | Audi | complete with British Leyland stamping. No modification, straight bolt on and AVAILABLE IN STOCK for less money. | |
| heater fan motor (interior) | ’84 Chrysler K-car rad fan motor | These motors are virtually identical, but you have to drill out your “hamster-wheel” to 5/16″ and re-use the original mounting flange. Also must run through a relay and switch (1 speed only and you’ll catch your original switch on fire if you use it) | |
| heater temp control cable | bicycle brake cables | less than $3 from a bike shop, and are less prone to crimping than aftermarket choke cables | |
| heater temp control cable | lawn mower throttle control | A generic lawn mower throttle control available for about $6 from any hardware store is an identical match for the heater temp control cable and can be cut to any length with diagonal pliers. | |
| heater temp control cable | VW Golf Mk2 and other modern cars | The bonnet release cable on Mk2’s is very good quality, self-lube solid core and makes an excellent heater control wire replacement. | |
| radiator | 1986 Pontiac Fiero | This requires a little modifications. First you need to cut the old brackets off flush with the frame. Bend these old brackets around the bottom edge of the Fireo radiator and squeeze them tight. These will now act as a reference point. You can either weld these old brackets to the frame, or you can bolt them in. I used the top of the radiator cover from the Fiero and used nylon tie straps to secure the radiator to the Spitfire frame. Now you have an Aluminum cored radiator which will help keep your overall temperature down. The alternator bracket can be lifted up to use as a support for the upper hose. | |
| radiator (Spitfire only… clearance problems with GT6) | Peugeot 205 radiator | Aluminum cored, full width radiator. Can use whole assembly with expansion tank and fan and hoses and wiring. Fits in easily with some simple brackets once the standard radiator and ‘U’ frame are removed. A Vitesse thermostat housing which goes to the side and then back a little avoids the top hose fouling the alternator fan. I got a whole assembly from a scrapyard for £25. | |
| radiator | Renault 12 or Dacia | This is a straight fit and fits in the U frame. It is a full size radiator. Dacia parts are sold everywere in Roeminia, new and very low priced!. But for most of us not a place were you come often. The Renault 12 is equal. The connection for the hoses is exactly the same as with the original. Changing to a Peugeot radiator is also possible but much harder because the hose connection is different! | |
| radiator fan | Maestro / Montego | Fit the fan in front of the UK spec radiator connect up a simple switch. Mounting using rubber tube and bent steel brackets requires no modification to either fan no rad just clamps on | |
| lower radiator hose | 1964 & 1965 Chevy Chevelle | A 1964 Chevelle 194 and a 1965 Chevelle 194 engine w/o ac will fit the 1973 to 1974 Spitfire water pump to tee lower hose and will also fit 1976 to 1978 lower radiator hose. | |
| electric fan | 1980 BMW (? model) | Visit Len Lubbers’s page for details | |
| thermostat (all) | standard GM thermostat | cheap, can be found at any parts store and comes in various heat ranges Opens at 82 C (180 F) 88 C (190 F) | |
| thermostat (all) | Stant brand thermostat | The Stant 180 deg temp themostat is p/n 29358 | |
| Thermostat housing gasket | Fel-Pro 35568 | “35568” is an absolutely perfect match except for the mounting holes being off slightly. They should have made them oblong like most gaskets. But scissors or a sharp knife will do the trick. Nice heavy pile to the gasket and it seems a lot more durable then the paper ones. | |
| thermostat cover (1979 & 1980 Spit) | 1300 & 1500 front wheel drive Triumphs | The thermostat cover on the late US Spitfire was originally fitted to 1300 and 1500 front wheel drive Triumphs in the UK. | |
| thermostat (GT6 MKIII) | Any 54mm thermostat | Any 54 mm thermostat will fit a GT6, not sure about other models, but its much cheaper and faster to get than a stock replacement. |
| Electrical | part | replacement | notes |
| alternator MkIV & 1500, GT6 MkIII | 63 amp 7127 GM Delco alternator 1978-79 Chevy Camaro 305 small block or ’78 LaSabre | Paul’s Pagehas another great resource but DON’T overlook the links at the top of page. | |
| alternator MkIV & 1500, GT6 MkIII | 80 amp 7134 GM Delco alternator | The 7134 also works, but is an 80amp unit versus the 63amp 7127. It was $40 more. | |
| alternator | A127 Lucus alternator | Straight swap (NO mods required) from most Rover, Metros and Montegos Visit Ashley Meson’s page for details | |
| alternator | Bosch alternator (from 78-80 Ford Fiesta for example) | Many Bosch altenators are a straight swap for the lucas one. It is more reliable, widely available and cheap (second hand). The mounting and even the connector are the same. Sometimes you have to use the old fanblade (easy to change). Be carefull with very heavy types (high amp) Minor changes need to be made to alternator’s pulley and fan blades | |
| alternator | Ford Mustang | I used a Chevy alternator arm/bracket | |
| alternator | Nippondenso 65A alternator | Upgrade your alternator to a Nippondenso 65amp unit from a Nissan 300ZX. Visit Scott Davis’ link for more info. | |
| General Dash parts (Hazard switch/warning lamp assembly and Brake warning lamp assembly) | Triumph TR-6 | Many Triumph parts were shared with similar year cars. | |
| flasher | 552 flasher | Any standard 552 heavy duty hazard warning flasher. It’s round instead of square – but still fits in the bracket. | |
| flasher (turn signal flasher) | 1977-1980 chevy luv truck | It has three prongs use the on two on the outside. | |
| generator (Mk1-3, GT6 MkI) | 7127 GM Alternator | Visit Dan Canaan’s page (on a 68 MkIII) or the visit VTR page for details | |
| generator | Lucus alternator from Mk4 or 1500 | ||
| horns | Rover 600 / Honda Accord | I have fitted Rover 600ti horns to my Spitfire. They are made of hard black plastic so they won’t rust. The Rover mounting brackets can be used on the Spifire without modification. | |
| ignition switch wiring plugs | 1971 Oldsmobile Firenza | the 5 pin socket ignition switch wiring plugs are identical to the Spit | |
| starter (GT6, possibly all)Will not fit LHD Spitfires…steering column rubs | 1989 Isuzu Trooper II 2.6 liter part # 17155 or 16878 | The swap was a physical bolt on. The Isuzu costs $72.99 (Autozone) with a life time warranty. You do have to change some wiring to bypass the original Starter Solenoid Wiring. Moved the original “solenoid to starter wire” to the upper lug on the Lucas solenoid and extended the original white/red “Ignition switch to Solenoid” wire to the solenoid on the new starter. Basically, I am using the old solenoid as a junction block. GT6 photo 1989 Isuzu Trooper II 2.6 liter part number 17155 (best fit but may no longer be available) or 16878 (larger body than 17155)See this link for very detailed info. | |
| starter (GT6, possibly all) | pre 75 Volvo (year?, model?) | Don’t remember what year (pre 75) starter we used but it bolted right in with no wiring changes. My local parts supplier has three buildings of British parts and other foreign parts so I think they just kept trying different starters till they found one that fit. Let us know if someone has more info. | |
| starter solenoid (all) | Ford solenoid from Mustang or F100 | $6.50 as opposed to $25 |
| Drivetrain/Trans | part | replacement | notes |
| clutch master cylinder cap | 2000 Chevy Cavalier cap | A really nice looking cap for your master clutch reservoir. A 2000 Chevy Cavalier fits perfect and it has specs written on it “use DOT 3 or better”. Fits my 1972 Spitfire. | |
| differential ring and pinion | TR7 ring and pinion (3.63:1) | TR7 4 Speed diff’s ring and pinion (3.63:1) has the same part number in the factory manual that the European Spitfire used. Essentially meaning that you would be able to attain a 3.63 ratio by using TR7 ring and pinion in the Spit’s housing | |
| Spitfire differential | GT6 differential | Direct replacement for Spit diff – has 3.63:1 ratio as in TR-7 but easier than replacing ring & pinion. Revs 1,000 RPM lower for same highway speed. (Speedo shows 10 MPH lower for same rev’s) | |
| GT6 or Spitfire differential | Datsun or Subaru R160 Limited-slip differential | very difficult with much fabriating and welding | |
| gearbox (GT6) | Triumph Dolomite | direct bolt in, need to use the Dolomite clutch plate. Stronger transmission than original transmissions. | |
| gearbox (GT6 and Spitfire) | |||
| gearbox (1500) | MG Midget Mk IV | Gearboxs can be interchangeable (if the correct rear housing is fitted that will take both sorts of mountings), but the gearset is entirely different – being a modified Marina 1300 set. All the other gearbox parts are interchangeable ie hubs, synchro rings, bearings, forks. The same genius who decided on the engine part numbers was probably in charge at this point – take the mainshaft, the Triumph version has a hole in for a ball bearing to lock the thrust in place that fits under second gear, the MG version doesn’t – brilliant planning making virtually identical parts in different factories under two different part numbers and was probably part of the reason for British Leyland’s problems. | |
| gearbox (Spitfires) | overdrive gearbox | Straight swap, however due to the added length of overdrive, you will also need the shorter drive shaft that originally came with the OD trans and new rear trans mounts | |
| gearbox mounting | Isuzu Trooper | 3.2duty, LWB, V6, 24 valve Petrol, K reg (1992) | |
| Overdrive solenoid | Volvo or Ford solenoid | All J type solenoids are interchangeable so Volvo and Ford ones will also work | |
| Universal Joints (drive & diff) | Volvo 140 UJs | Much cheaper, easily available and Swedish quality |
| Brakes, Suspension & Wheels | part | replacement | notes |
| anti-roll bar (pre 1973 Spitfires) | anti- roll bar (73 and up) | 73-up cars have a larger front anti-roll bar (approximately 15/16 inch instead of 11/16 inch) which, while not as good as a one-inch aftermarket bar, is a cheap junkyard upgrade. | |
| beauty rings (wheel trim rings) | Dodge Omni or Plymouth Horizon (TC3) and Ford Escort & Mercury Tracer | Wheel trim rings (beauty rims) will fit Spitfire’s stock 13″ wheels perfectly. I bought 4 beautiful ones, $20 salvage yard. Its an alternative to Moss,Vic, TRF. etc. | |
| brakes (GT6 front calipers) | TR-6 front calipers | TR6 calipers up to CC81078 (1972) are identical to GT6’s through mid 72 TR6 calipers from CC81079 are identical to GT6 calipers from mid 72 to 73 | |
| brakes (GT6/TR6 front calipers) | 1979-83 Toyota four wheel drive pickup | With some mods the Toyota calipers fit TR6’s. Since TR6 calipers fit GT6 then the Toyota ones should also fit. Visit link to VTR site for conversion. | |
| brakes (Spitfire front calipers/suspension) | GT-6’s stronger front discs, vertical link, calipers and hubs | Straight swap but must use everything between the A-arms. Not sure if they will fit all years but probably safe to assume Mk1-2 GT6 fit Mk1-3 Spit and Mk3 GT6 fit Mk4-1500 | |
| brakes (Spit front calipers) | 70s Ford Escort (Euro) | Front brake calipers fits, but the brake hose comes to different place, so you have to change the hose: (from Opel with “banjo type” fitting) to clear the suspension parts when turning the wheels. | |
| brakes (front caliper pistons and rebuild kit) Spitfire 1967-80 | Jensen Healey, Delorian, Porsche 911S & Carrara, Morgan +4 & 4/4 | According to this Morgan site the caliper piston 32320329 and rebuild kit SP2697 are also used on the following cars: Jensen Healey; the rear of the Delorian; Spitfire (67-80); Porsche 911S (74-77), Carrara (72-75), 911SC (77-on), Morgan +4 and 4/4 (61-85). The calipers are different. | |
| brakes (front caliper pistons and rebuild kit) GT6 1968-73 | Capri, Austin Healey 3000, Delorian, TR4-6, Morgan +8 | According to this Morgan site the caliper piston 64321880 and rebuild kit SP2589 are used on West German Capri 2000, Morgan +8 (68-7/78) 2300, 2600 (71-74), 2.3 & 2.8 Litre (75-78); Austin Healey 3000s (64-67) if replacement calipers are installed; GT6 (68-73); TR4 thru TR 6 (65-76) if replacement calipers are installed. The calipers are different. | |
| brake assembly (rear) | GT-6’s stronger brakes | Straight swap. You need from the backing plate out (drums, shoes,wheel cylinders, etc.) | |
| brake drum pin & spring set | 70s Ford Escort, Sierra kit | Pin and spring kit for all years Spitfire/GT6 drum brake – Autogem BHK38 Brake Shoe Fitting Kit for Ford Escort, Sierra. | |
| brake pads (MkIII-1500) | 70s Ford Escort MkI (non US) | brake pads from Rimmer Brothers is labelled “for Ford Escort MK 1” Straight swap | |
| brake pads (MkIII-1500) | Volvo 140 | Straight swap | |
| brake pads (MkIII-1500) | Volvo 240 (rear) | Stock Volvo pads from local Volvo dealer (fitment is REAR pads for 240’s with Girling rear brakes). Major improvement! Lighter pedal feel, much better bite! One thing, don’t use the black mastic anti-vibration pads that come with them, just use the aluminum shims. The mastic pads make the pedal feel squishy, and taking them out made no difference in the amount of brake noise – there is none either way. They were about $30 for the set. | |
| brake pads (GT6) | Datsun 240Z | – | |
| brake light switch | Austin Metro | Exactly the same part, so straight swap, no modifications needed. Cheap new and abundant in scrapyards. | |
| brake light switch | 73 Chevy Nova switch | Go to ANY Auto Parts store and ask for a 73 (non-cruise control) Chevy Nova switch. They make two, one that is metal and the other is plastic. Less than $10.00. It works great but you do need to shave off part of the threads, like it is on the OEM unit, so it will fit. | |
| brake light switch | Datsun 310 | Brake light switch fits without modification | |
| brake light switch | 1977-1981 Chevy Luv Truck | Direct replacement but will have to crimp new ends on it. | |
| hubs (rear) | Dolomites and Marinas | Dolomites and Marinas used the same hub | |
| lug bolts | 7/16″ x 20 studs (Mercury Capri ) | Dorman part # 610-175 or Balkamp’s (from NAPA) part # BK641-1063(R) | |
| lug bolts | 7/16″ lugs | Some machining required. This link also has some info. (WHEEL-TITE brand, part #28020) | |
| lug bolts | 70s Ford Escort, Cortina studs | Ford Escort, Cortina etc. studs fit straight to Spitfire hubs without any modifications. | |
| lug bolts m12x1.5 | 2004 Land R Freelander front | part# CLP9037Lsame head and shank as original, 1/2 inch longer.Great for alloy wheels, much stonger than original | |
| master cylinder | Datsun 510 | The flare fittings are metric, so I had to cut the end of the brake lines, then re-flared them with metric fittings. The master cylinder used the same bolt pattern, so there was no problem bolting it in. The Datsun MC is designed to sit level in the car but have had no trouble with the Spit’s angle. | |
| master cylinder | Toyota Tercel (US) | had to modify mounting bracket and add metric fittings | |
| master cylinder | TR7 | Same size, angle etc. But the TR7 used a larger pipe and pipe fitting. The flare was cut off. A suitable ‘large’ fitting was substituted for ‘small’ pipe for $1. | |
| shocks (rear) | 13.5 Harley-Davidson Motorcycles | Remove bushings from Harley shocks replace with 3/4 inch long pieces of heater hose. With 5/8 inch diameter. This will raise the rear of the car up by about 1.5 inches to get rid of the sag common on the spit. Did this on my 1977 1500 worked great cost $25 including shipping on ebay. Most Harely owners remove these as soon as the get dirty or to lower their bikes cheap and plentiful.The ones I purchased were for a 2004-05 XL model with 13.5 eyelet to eyelet measurement. Most motor cycle shocks that measurer 13.5 to 14.5 would work as long as they have eyelets on each end. This raised my rear end up by a little over 1.75 inches. The Harely have a little larger eyelet opening than most Asian cycles but they still could be used. I even installed a pair to lower my Yamaha 750 down by 3/4 of an inch last year (required a thin steel bushing do to hole size difference). The 77 Spitfire drives better and now sits almost level since installation. | |
| shocks (rear) | 62-78 Corvette Monroe MA-7851980 Corvette Gabriel (Auto Zone Part# 49304) | you need to take the old mounting grommets & washers from the top of the old shocks & use them on the new ones (different size) Visit VTR page for details | |
| springs (front, US 1500) | Mk3 Springs (214144) | Gave me back the phenomenal handling and stability Spitfires were world renowned for. The 214144 early spring is rated at 150lbs rather than the later TKC1884 being rated at 180lbs. Visit Paul’s website for details. | |
| springs (Spitfire front) | springs (GT6 front) | GT6 front springs with one coil cut off work well on a Spitfire | |
| wheel bearings | Spitfire | TR6 front wheel bearings are the same as Spitfire | |
| wheel bearings | GT6 | GT6 front wheel bearings are the same as the Stag. Victoria British and Moss use their own part numbers so you can’t tell from those catalogs but if you look up the factory part numbers it shows they are the same. GT6 and Stag share the same front outer wheel bearings as the MGB, MGC and MGBGT. | |
| wheels | – | see the wheels page for more info about other brands/cars that fit Spitfires/GT6’s | |
| wheels | 1986-89 DeLorean | These are 14″ rims that fit on the Spitfire. They are fit the rear well but are too wide for the front (they hit the frame) | |
| wheels (early Spitfire) | late Spitfire | All Spitfires used the same bolt pattern (3.75″). Late Spitfire wheels, at 4.5″ or 5″ (1980) wide will fit early Spits. | |
| wheels | TR7 | 5.5″ wide with same bolt pattern and offset. Note: TR7 wheels are hubcentric (centered on the hubs) and Spitfire hubs do not allow this. It is a good idea to countersink the lug holes 1/16 inch to better accept the Spitfire’s stock tapered lug nuts.Check out this link for more info | |
| wheels | MGF wheels | MGF alloys are a direct swap, exact same PCD (3.75″) and Offsets, they look good too | |
| wheels | Rover Metros and Montegos wheels | Straight swap & are 14″ in diameter | |
| wheels | Austin Marina and early Lotus | Marina’s and Lotus’s used the same bolt pattern |
| Body/Exterior | part | replacement | notes |
| antenna (roundtail Spits) | Toyota Hilux 89-on (Australia) | Fits rear RH or LH quarter panel clear of the wheel arch. Curve of the antenna match identical to Spitfire 4 | |
| bonnet stay | gas struts Rover 214 (or 214i)orMonroe: 901002 – PB | My bonnet holder upper broke – rather than fix it I had recommended to me using 2x gas struts from above car. One on each side, mounting on the wheel arch (holes already drilled) and the chassis angle bracket for mounting the valances (you’ll need to knock something up with angle iron here). Works a treat and the bonnet will just about hold its own weight in any position. See link for details. | |
| bumpers (rubber 79-80 Spit) | chrome bumpers | Yes, it is possible but front is not a straight swap. Details to come. | |
| rear bumper (75-79 Spit) | – | I removed the rubber “bullets” and the large center bumper cover and found a perfect bumper underneath. The bumper has holes but the can be filled with chrome bumper bolts from any 60’s car | |
| bumper uprights (early cars) | Standard Vanguard 1961 | – | |
| doors | Mk3 GT6 doors will fit Mk4-1500 Spitfires and visa versa | GT6 doors’ vents add much needed cooling to the cockpit, especially when the hardtop was in place. Interior parts of the door are different. | |
| door strikers (early Spitfires and GT6’s) | Austin Healey door strikers | they are the same as are used on several earlier Austin Healey’s. | |
| window waist seals | 86 Toyota Tercel | Much more substantial. Hold window tightly. Use inside and outside. Cut down to fit. | |
| fender trim “bead” | door edge protectors | Black door edge protectors from Walmart can be substituted for the missing upper fender trim on later model Spits. One package does one fender perfectly. $2.66 per fender. | |
| firewall/throttle linkage bushings (GT6 MkI) | refrigeration compressor feet | The holes on eather side of firewall where the throttle linkage comes through the sheet metal. These rubber feet or vibration dampers from a 1/4 or 1/3 hp compressor are great replacements and are better than the set I ordered that were too hard to get into position (I even tried to heat them up to make them go into the holes to no avail. The compressor feet fit tight and with a little lube (silicone spray) every once and a while the will last a long time. | |
| front running/turn signals lenses (under bumper) | same as on MG’s | from FH78674 on under front bumpers | |
| fuel filler hose | Full size mid ’90s Dodge Trucks Part#52127832 | The diameter of the hose is the same and material is gas resistant. Just cut to proper length. | |
| hardtop (MkIV) | 1500 | Mk IV and 1500 hardtops are interchangeable | |
| headlights (1500) | Volvo Amazon/Volvo 140 | Fit straight on. Cut off the back side of the original Spit rubber cup and you can change H4 bulbs without removing the complete lamp. | |
| luggage rack (1500) | same as on TR6’s | The same 6 slat rack was used on TR6 | |
| rear number plate light (round tail Spits & GT6’s) | various British cars | AC Cobra Austin A30/35/40/90, Mini Austin-Healey 100-4, 100-6, 3000, Sprite through 1969 Daimler SP250 Hillman Minx Kit Cars such as Cobra & MG replica cars and many, many others MG TD/TF, MGA, Midget through 1969, European spec MGB w/dual number plate lamps Morgan 4/4, 1951-67 Morris Minor, Mini Rover 75, Landrover 2/3 1963-74 Singer 1951-56 Triumph TR3, Herald, Vitesse, GT6 & Spitfire through 1969 | |
| rear license plate lamps (US Mk4-1500) | old Toyota or Nissan | Chrome or painted version available from wreckers. Cost $2.50 to $5 instead of $35 for original. Bolt spacing is 1/4″ wider than original, but holes in body can be filed slightly oblong to accommodate. | |
| chrome rear license plate lamps (MkIV and early 1500) | black rear license plate lamps (late1500) | I found this out purely by accident. I decided to repaint the license plate lamps on my 78 Spitfire. I liked the chrome ones on the 77 model but I was being frugal and figured I’d just paint to old ones. I started cleaning the old ones and lo and rehold,I started seeing chrome underneath. Looks like they were just painted over with black paint at the factory. I used lacquer thinner and the lamps are now shiny. | |
| Rear Turn Signal bulb sockets | 1971 Oldsmobile Firenza bulb sockets | – | |
| Rear Turn Signals (Round tail cars) | MGA, Morgan +4 & 4/4, TR3 | According to this Morgan site the Stop (Tail) lights, Lucas 53330 – Model 549, of roundtail Spitfires were also used on Morgan+4 & 4/4 (59-68), TR 3s, and MGAs | |
| Rear Turn Signals (Square tail cars) | same as on “square tail” Stag’s | Straight swap on “square tail” Spits | |
| Rubber Cowl Seal | Universal (weather seal) | Use 3/8″ or 5/16″ black bubble seal,to replace (oem) full width cowl seal. Cut to size, presses right on. Gives a better watertight seal. Also use it to seal left & right front fender seals AND on top of window glass (L&R) makes a better seal against the hardtop. An easy-on (more effective) replacement. I bought mine at ‘ZIEBART’ Co. OR NAPA. ETC. for $10.00 (20ft) approx. | |
| Seat upolstery | Office Max office chairs | Use leather upolstery off chairs on 74-80 front seats. $30 / seat after rebates. Does not cover head rests and only comes in black 🙂 | |
| side marker plint (rubber holding chrome finisher and side lights) (Mk4-1500 Spits and Mk3 GT6) | MG Midget 71+ (rear fenders only) | Not a perfect match but Spit part is no longer made. Midget parts are flat and Spits are slightly thicker at bottom to compensate for body curvature. see photo | |
| Tail light mounting gasket (round tail Spits) | 58-61 Bugeye sprite | This is the gasket that goes between the body and the light assembly. The only difference is the mounting holes. Victoria British part # 8-822 Gasket rear stop / tail. | |
| windshield (Mk1-Mk3 Spitfires and Mk1-Mk2 GT6 only) | TR4/4A, TR5/250, TR6 1961-75 | All these cars used the same windshield | |
| windshield (Mk4-1500) | GT6 Mk3 | Mk4-1500 Spitfires and Mk3 GT6 windshields are interchangeable | |
| windshield wiper stalk gasket | Lawn hose inner “O” ring | Tired of water running into your car at the body around the wiper? I used a garden hose O ring to fix the problem. You will have to take the wiper arm off and the nut and cover. | |
| Windscreen washer jet | Rover 600 /Allegro | I have an Austin Allegro water jet pump that feeds Rover 600 dual port nozzel jets. So I get 4 streams of water to clean the screen. | |
| windshield water pump | Nissan e.g. 1990 Cherry | The original 1500 windscreen washer pump was used in some Nissans | |
| bumper notes: | Spitfire bumpers | Mk’s I&II to Mk3 and Rubber 1500’s to Chrome | Round tail: Mk II and Mk III front bumpers are not interchangeable due to different mounting points. Mk1 & MkII bumpers have notches cut out of them that the MkIII’s don’t. Mk I and II which are interchangeable. Rear bumpers will fit with some modifications, but keep in mind that Mk I and II cars had vertical sections to the bumpers where as Mk III models did not. There is a tail light lens in the location where the vertical bumper section would be on the Mk III’s. So you can put Mk III bumpers on any Mk I through Mk III, but you cannot put the Mk I or II rear bumpers on a Mk III.1500: While possible, it does require cutting and welding (the bonnet mounting points are different and must be swapped also) The rear bumpers of 1500’s are a straight swap. |
| Interior/Cockpit | part | replacement | notes |
| Dashboard Clock | Morris Marina / Ital | Get a GT6 Passenger dash panel with the air vent cut out. The Hole is exactly the right size for a Smiths automotive clock. There are many different styles to choose from, go browse your nearest scrapyard. P.S. My dash clock keeps very good time! | |
| door seals | late-model Hyundai Excel | Don’t want to pay for “furflex” factory type door weatherstripping? Go to a junk yard and look for Hyundai’s. Cost–about $10 for enough to do a complete car, and if you get a late enough model, it will look just like new (without the furflex of course)! | |
| door seals | late 90’s Chevrolet S-10 pickup | I used a set of late 90’s door seals from an S-10 to replace my worn out seals. Just cut to length needed and press on. I have a hard top and each door did enouth to cover everything side to side with some left over and stopped most of the drafts (like anything will ever stop them all), works as good as when new. | |
| door seals | from JC WhineyPart# SJ819909N | $17.99 ea, will need two (2) Flexible black rubber, much better then the cloth seals, and cheaper | |
| GT6+ MK2 Ignition lock | MGB | “I bought an Ignition lock slated for 1968 MGB and it was perfect match for my 1970 GT6. Modification is only to remove the switch from it using the single set screw and swapping for mine… perfect fit!!! (you must drill the shear bolts from old switch to remove from steering column, better done with column removed from car.)” | |
| hand brake grip | MG Maestro | The original hand brake grip is not very good. A much nicer black plasticized rubber grip is fitted to the Meastro. To remove wait for a very hot day at the scrapyard and pull and wriggle till off it comes. Shorten grip by 1 cm. Heat with boiling water and slide over Spitfire hand brake. Result: hand brake now has a luxury feel. | |
| rev counter | Austin Apache TC | The Apache’s distributor uses electronic ignition and is a much better distributor than the AC Delco one originally fitted to Spitfires. It does not have the mechanical tacho drive needed for MkI to III Spitfires. | |
| speedo/tach rubber gasket | garden pond pump gasket | The large rubber gasket that goes between the tack/speedo and the dash can be substituted with gaskets from pond pumps. These parts found in the gardending section at Home Depot type stores. | |
| upper steering column bush (nylon type) | any Mini | its the same size & fits ok | |
| upper steering column bush (nylon type) | neoprene faucet washers from any hardware store | The center hole is too small and will need to be drilled to fit the 1/4″ bolt. | |
| steering wheel/column parts (77-80 Spitfire) | TR7 used a lot of the same parts | from FH100020 on | |
| seat belts | Rover Metro | Should fit in with little or no modifications. | |
| seats | Mazda Miata/ MX-5 Eunos Mk1 seats | Modifications are required. Two approaches: making interface brackets and modifying existing brackets: Dave’s page for brackets, Geof’s page, and for modifying. Paul’s site shows dimensions of Miata & Spitfire seats. Note: Original tonneau still fits. | |
| seats | Pontiac Fiero seats | quite a few modifications are required but they fit side to side | |
| seat reclining handle | MG door handle | from FH50000 on |
Lotus Super Seven used many Spitfire parts. Click here to see which.
Also Lotus Europa. Click here. Elan, click here.
Morgan site listing some parts that work on Spit/GT6’s (mostly hydraulic)