First
you must learn to read between the lines of some of
those advertisements
Description
|
Meaning
|
One owner
|
Hertz
|
Ideal for enthusiast
|
Total restoration needed
|
Slight attention needed
|
Needs major overhaul
|
Good mechanics
|
Bad body
|
Good body
|
Bad Mechanics
|
Marriage forces sale
|
It can be done in a Triumph, they did,
and must get married
|
Stored two years
|
Most parts seized, grass in chassis
|
No dealers
|
No body who knows anything about cars,
please
|
Collector's item
|
Price is over-inflated
|
Good t tires
|
That's all that is good about it
|
Excellent condition
|
Buyer beware
|
Genuine reason for sale
|
I've got to dump it
|
Company car forces sale
|
I've got a better job and getting a
decent car
|
Baby forces sale
|
Can't pour any more money into this
thing
|
House forces sale
|
Neighbors complaining
|
In need of total restoration
|
In pieces
|
Lack of time forces sale
|
Spent more time than it's worth
|
Dismantled for restoration
|
I can't put it back together
|
Slight accident damage
|
Total write off
|
OBO (or best offer)
|
I don't expect the asking price
|
Offers
|
I haven't the nerve to put a price on
the car
|
Used daily
|
High mileage and jillion things wrong
with it
|
Genuine mileage
|
Disconnected speedo-cable
|
Drives good
|
Looks terrible
|
Strong runner
|
same as above
|
Owned by careful lady
|
The others were maniacs
|
Will bargain
|
I'll get mad, you won't buy the car and
I'll hit you
|
Will consider trade
|
Anything to get out from under this
dog
|
|
|
Thank you Sandy Sanders Cambridge,
England
But
Seriously...
I must first say you will be buying a hobby not
a car. These cars are old and being built on even
older technologies and designs, they are not as
reliable as a modern car. These cars require
maintenance that modern cars have engineered out.
That been said, it will break down so be
prepared.
When buying one of these cars, keep in mind that
most everything is easily fixed EXCEPT body work.
Rust can often make an otherwise decent car an
expensive pile of **** or even a deathtrap. When
looking at the car be sure that major rust hasn't
been quickly covered up and painted over. It is a
good idea to take a refrigerator magnet and run it
around areas of the body like behind the wheels,
under the doors and the nose. If the magnet doesn't
stick there is probably "Bondo" filling. This is
not always bad but at least you are aware of
previous repairs and discuss them with the owner.
Got to our checklist
page and print out the list to take with you.
It will help you be more objective about the car
and not just see it as a cool new toy.
When you get the car it is a good idea to give
the car a complete going over. Replace all fluids
(oil, brake fluid, diff., coolant). Oil/grease the
hinges, u-joints, trunnions, etc. Give it a full
tune up (new plugs, ignition wires, dist. cap,
points, check timing, etc.). Change all hoses,
belts and pads. Having everything that wears out
replaced will ensure your car getting off on the
right foot. This will cost around $150 for you to
do or a couple of hundred for someone else to do
it. You might consider rebuilding the carb also. It
can make a huge difference!
If the car has been sitting for a while, the
brakes and clutch will more than likely have
problems. Repairs are relatively straight forward
but MUST be fixed. Safety is paramount.
Also, see our "New Owner's" Page.
Prices
What is it worth? Good question. A lot is
dependent on the condition of the car, how much is
original, the age of the car, famous previous
owner, etc. Occasionally you will find a person
that wants to get rid of someone else's car
(ex-husband, death in the family, etc.). These cars
are usually a steal as the seller has no idea of
the value and rarely cares. These cars are rare and
are the exception. The more normal sale will not be
as cheap as these. The value of these cars is a
tricky thing. As a general rule, the older &
more original, the more valuable. (If you change
anything with a non-original item ie. replacing a
Zenith Carb with a Weber, keep the item. You can
always put it back on later.) My guess based on
prices I have seen for Spitfires is: Crap/Parts
cars- $0-$800, Fun driver needing things-
$1000-$3000, A restored or great original-
$3000-5000, perfect cars- $5000 and up. Remember,
it is almost always cheaper to buy a pretty good
car with minor things wrong than to buy a piece of
**** and fix it up. This been said, buy the best
you can afford, and know what needs attending to up
front.
Finding a pretty complete "parts car" will pay
for itself many times over in not only cheap parts
but as a reference guide. If you pull a part off
your car and forget how it goes back on, go to the
parts car and find out.
Where
to Buy
Of course I recommend the "Spitfires
Only" classifieds as well as local newspaper classifieds. Hemmings
Motor News makes a wonderful book of everything
auto related for sale, trade, wanted, etc. But be
warned. You will spend many hours drooling and
"shopping". Anyone remember the Sears Wish Book
that came out just before Christmas?
Buyer
Guides (outside links)
The
European Triumph Spitfire MkIV and 1500 buyers
guide
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