Owning a Triumph can be costly when it comes to purchasing parts. And some parts are not made will while others are no longer available. That is why we built this page. It lists the non-Triumph parts found by clever owners that will work just as well, if not better.
Most, if not all entries on this page, were sent by Spitfire & GT6 magazine readers. We try to double check that the information is correct or as clear as possible but are not always able.
This page will stay in a constant state of construction. If you have any info that you would like to add to this page, please
us or use the submit
page.
Engine | Cooling
| Electrical |
Drivetrain/transmission |
Brakes/Suspension/Wheels
| Body/Exterior | Interior
| Other Sites
Engine
|
part
|
replacement
|
notes
|
|
carbon canister
|
1971 Oldsmobile Firenza
|
carbon canister, three hose version,
made by Coopers in the UK - identical
to a late Spit
|
|
carbs (Zenith Stromberg)
|
SU's from MGB or Mini
|
72-74 MGB's used a SU HIF4 carb (1
1/2"). They have four mounting holes.
You can also use a HS2 from a Mini from
the early 70's. They have diagonal
mounting holes that will line up with
the holes on the single Zenith intake
manifold.
I read about this conversion somewhere.
Anyone done it? Let
me know how it went.
Update: the MG was either a twin HS4 (1.5") or HS6 (1.75") carbs. HS4 carbs have 2 diagonal holes, HS6 and larger have 4 as far as I know - And all HiFs have 4. The HS2 as found on Minis and many other small BMC/ BL cars is a 1.25" carb. It is also easily identified by the mounting holes being vertical, not diagonal!
NEW! Here is a link to more info.
|
|
carbs (Hitachi SU) |
early datsun 240z |
Hitachi SU slight tweak on mounting holes easy setup and available parts
More info to come... |
|
choke cable |
universal choke cable |
If you want to convert from auto to manual choke (which I recommend), and don't want to pay $80 for one I suggest going to your auto parts store (Autozone in my case), and in the "HELP!" section they should have a few different types of cable. One of them even has everything you would need to convert for about 15-$20, I got the cable by itself for $6 and fabricated my own linkage and brackets. Just remove the auto choke housing and from there you can see how it works and what u need to make it work. Its simple to do and much more functional than the automatic choke. |
|
con-rod bolts
|
Ford Sierra Cosworth
|
very strong bolts for racing, $34 a
set, these bolt straight in! As used by
top Spitfire UK racer Jon Wolfe, use
standard torque when tightening these
up.
|
|
distributor
|
75 and up MGB and Midget
|
Lucas 45D or 45D4 distributor is a
straight swap, fits 75 and up (earlier
?). 25D will also fit.
|
|
EGR blanking plug |
1930 Model A Ford oil drain plug |
When you remove the egr valve you need a plug that is not easily found. On the Ford the oil drain plug is a perfect fit. Found on line from Brattons. Size is 3/4 x 24 fine thread. |
|
electronic ignition
(GT6 MKIII)
|
Nissan 1400 LDV
(New Zealand)
|
This is a straight fit. Only mod is to fit spade connectors to the wiring harness. Ignition includes switch.
|
|
electronic ignition
(late 1500's)
|
Rover Metro/Maestro's
|
the electronic system from certain
Metro/Maestro can be fitted very
cheaply as it can be obtained from
scrapyards, the contactless system can
be fitted directly to the existing
distributor so the correct
centrifugal/vacuum advance is used. In
actual fact you should be having little
trouble with the existing points
setup.
|
|
electronic ignition
CEI ignition box
(75-80 only)
|
standard 4-pin GM Ignition
Module
part number TP45SB for 1980 Chev.
Chevette w/1.6 L engine.
|
Take the box off the firewall, pull
the screws off of the back of the box,
pop the panel off, and there it is, a
GM 4-pin ignition module (along with a
capacitor and a zener diode...). Switch
the wires from the old one to the new
one (straight swap, spade connections),
apply the conductive goo (usually
included) to the back of the new
module, and carefully secure the new
module. Further note, watch all the
grounds ( be aware that the GM module
body grounds to the Lucas box which
grounds to the car body).
|
|
electronic ignition
CEI ignition box
(75-80 only)
|
1980 Chevrolet Camaro 229 V-6 with
HEI 4 wire module
|
The original 1975 to 1980 CEI
ignition amplifier contained internally
a GM ignition module used in the 1980
Chevrolet Camaro with a 229 V-6. This
module is a standard HEI 4 wire
ignition module and is readily
available at most stores.
|
|
engine (1500)
|
MG Midget Mk IV
|
The engines are identical, despite
the fact that the MG version had an
entirely different set of part numbers
to the Triumph version - it must have
taken a genius to decide on that
policy.
|
|
engine (GT6)
|
TR6 engine block
|
GT6 & TR6 used the same block
but had different heads and
crank/rods/pistons. A piston/con
rod/crank swap will add 500cc's!
|
|
fuel pump block off plate
|
Big Block Chevy
|
The plate is a bit longer, but the
studs match and it seals completely
|
|
fuel tank float
|
94 Ford Ranger (and probably all in
that year style's range
|
I work at a mechanic's shop, and as
we were replacing the fuel tank on my
74 Spitfire 1500, we noticed that the
float was bad. Our lead mechanic
exclaimed, "Hey, I just replaced that
in my Ford Ranger two days ago."
Straight swap, and obviously cheap.
|
|
head (1300cc)
|
Triumph Toledo
|
a late Toledo head (218141 - 8.5
with 1296cc) or a late Mk IV head
(218142). These heads have the biggest
standard inlet valves, and will
increase BHP at the top end
More info
about head swaps
|
|
head (GT6) |
TR6 head |
I put a TR6 head onto my GT6 block. Straight-up match. The only hitch, you have to use the TR6 manifold gasket. |
|
head nuts
|
Rover Metro
|
straight swap
|
|
intake and exhaust manifolds
|
1500cc & 1300cc Spitfire
|
1300 and 1500 heads were made from
the same casting so manifolds are
interchangeable
|
|
oil filter (cars with spin on
filters and adapters)
|
Autolite FL400S
Fram 2870A
Fram 3600
Purolator L10017
|
-
|
|
oil filter (cars with spin on
filters)
|
Ford V8 filter
(Fram TG3600)
|
"I have always (for the last 25
years) used the Ford V-8 filter, with
an adapter. (old # PF-1, etc.)
It's a large filter, with lot's of
surface area for cooling the oil, and
holds a full quart of oil, extra
capacity without a custom oil pan. For
those with clearance problems (the Ford
filter sticks out a bit), use a
Purolator L10017. It's like a shorter
bodied version of the Ford filter, same
base, threads, etc. It's good if you
use a sandwich type oil cooler
adapter."
|
|
oil pressure switch (1296cc)
|
Chevy
|
an oil pressure switch from a 1970
Chevy 250 cubic inch 6 cyl motor for
$2.99 will work on a 1296 cc motor.
|
|
oil pressure switch (1500cc)
|
GM
|
NAPA's Echlin #OP6610 is a direct
replacement for the three connector
switch for 1500's with the anti-run-on
valve
|
|
oil pressure switch (1500cc) |
Chevrolet Monza
79,77-76
Vega
77-76,74-71
Oldsmobile Starfire
79-76
Pontiac Astre
76
Sunbird
78,76
Ventura
75 |
Oil Pressure Switch part #PS-64. It is made by Standard Motor Products Inc. |
|
pistons (competition 1200cc)
|
Cooper S pistons
|
reboring to 70.6 mm, you can fit
Mahle flat top forged Cooper S pistons
(GR2) Shorten the skirt.
|
|
pistons (1300cc)
|
Ford Fiesta pistons
|
Engine capacity can be increased to
1350cc by boring out to + 60 (Ford
Fiesta pistons can be used but anything
bigger than +60 can lead to head gasket
problems) and this will increase the
torque. If high-compression pistons are
used, lower compression head will need
to be fitted otherwise excessive
pinking
See Head Swaps
page
|
|
rod bearings (1500's)
|
"Clevite 77" MGB rod bearings, Part
#Clevite CB792P, in .010"
undersize.
|
File the outside edge of the
locating tang on the bearings to fit
the bearings to the rods.
Also, it is recommended grinding the
crank to 1.8665" (about .009") to get a
.002" clearance
(from 1500 competition prep manual)
|
|
throttle cable
|
bicycle brake cable
|
bike shops stock long cables,
housing of any length - helpful when
converting to Weber carb setup
|
|
valve cover (GT6)
|
TR6 valve cover
|
TR6 and GT6 valve covers are
interchangeable
Straight bolt up, except that most aftermarket ones lack the groove to hold the gasket, as well as some emissions hoses need to be changed since aftermarket covers' blow-by hose comes out in the middle, rather than towards the front.
|
back
to top
Cooling
|
part
|
replacement
|
notes
|
|
electric fan relay
|
NAPA acc relay AR274
|
straight swap
|
|
electric fan thermostatic switch
(79-80 Spitfire)
|
78 Volkswagen Golf fan switch
|
straight swap
|
|
fan clutch |
Audi |
complete with British Leyland stamping. No modification, straight bolt on and AVAILABLE IN STOCK for less money. |
|
heater fan motor (interior)
|
'84 Chrysler K-car rad fan motor
|
These motors are virtually
identical, but you have to drill out
your "hamster-wheel" to 5/16" and
re-use the original mounting flange.
Also must run through a relay and
switch (1 speed only and you'll catch
your original switch on fire if you use
it)
|
|
heater temp control cable
|
bicycle brake cables
|
less than $3 from a bike shop, and
are less prone to crimping than
aftermarket choke cables
|
|
heater temp control cable
|
lawn mower throttle control
|
A generic lawn mower throttle
control available for about $6 from any
hardware store is an identical match
for the heater temp control cable and
can be cut to any length with diagonal
pliers.
|
|
heater temp control cable
|
VW Golf Mk2
and other modern cars
|
The bonnet release cable on Mk2's is
very good quality, self-lube solid core
and makes an excellent heater control
wire replacement.
|
|
radiator
|
1986 Pontiac Fiero
|
This requires a little
modifications. First you need to cut
the old brackets off flush with the
frame. Bend these old brackets around
the bottom edge of the Fireo radiator
and squeeze them tight. These will now
act as a reference point. You can
either weld these old brackets to the
frame, or you can bolt them in. I used
the top of the radiator cover from the
Fiero and used nylon tie straps to
secure the radiator to the Spitfire
frame. Now you have an Aluminum cored
radiator which will help keep your
overall temperature down. The
alternator bracket can be lifted up to
use as a support for the upper
hose.
|
|
radiator (Spitfire only... clearance problems with GT6)
|
Peugeot 205 radiator
|
Aluminum cored, full width radiator.
Can use whole assembly with expansion
tank and fan and hoses and wiring. Fits
in easily with some simple brackets
once the standard radiator and 'U'
frame are removed. A Vitesse thermostat
housing which goes to the side and then
back a little avoids the top hose
fouling the alternator fan. I got a
whole assembly from a scrapyard for
£25.
|
|
radiator
|
Renault 12 or Dacia
|
This is a straight fit and fits in
the U frame. It is a full size
radiator. Dacia parts are sold
everywere in Roeminia, new and very low
priced!. But for most of us not a place
were you come often. The Renault 12 is
equal. The connection for the hoses is
exactly the same as with the original.
Changing to a Peugeot radiator is also
possible but much harder because the
hose connection is different!
|
|
radiator fan
|
Maestro / Montego
|
Fit the fan in front of the UK spec
radiator connect up a simple switch.
Mounting using rubber tube and bent
steel brackets requires no modification
to either fan no rad just clamps on
|
|
lower radiator hose
|
1964 & 1965 Chevy Chevelle
|
A 1964 Chevelle 194 and a 1965
Chevelle 194 engine w/o ac will fit the
1973 to 1974 Spitfire water pump to tee
lower hose and will also fit 1976 to
1978 lower radiator hose.
|
|
electric fan
|
1980 BMW (? model)
|
Visit Len
Lubbers's page for details
|
|
thermostat (all)
|
standard GM thermostat
|
cheap, can be found at any parts
store and comes in various heat
ranges
Opens at 82 C (180 F) 88 C (190 F)
|
|
thermostat (all)
|
Stant brand thermostat
|
The Stant 180 deg temp themostat is
p/n 29358
|
|
Thermostat housing gasket
|
Fel-Pro 35568
|
"35568" is an absolutely perfect
match except for the mounting holes
being off slightly. They should have
made them oblong like most gaskets. But
scissors or a sharp knife will do the
trick.
Nice heavy pile to the gasket and it
seems a lot more durable then the paper
ones.
|
|
thermostat cover (1979 & 1980
Spit)
|
1300 & 1500 front wheel drive
Triumphs
|
The thermostat cover on the late US
Spitfire was originally fitted to 1300
and 1500 front wheel drive Triumphs in
the UK.
|
|
thermostat (GT6 MKIII) |
Any 54mm thermostat |
Any 54 mm thermostat will fit a GT6, not sure about other models, but its much cheaper and faster to get than a stock replacement. |
back
to top
Electrical
|
part
|
replacement
|
notes
|
|
alternator
MkIV & 1500, GT6 MkIII
|
63 amp 7127 GM Delco alternator
1978-79 Chevy Camaro 305 small block or
'78 LaSabre
|
This
link has great photos, and
another.
Paul's
Page has another great resource but
DON'T overlook the links at the top of
page.
|
|
alternator
MkIV & 1500, GT6 MkIII
|
80 amp 7134 GM Delco alternator
|
The 7134 also works, but is an 80amp
unit versus the 63amp 7127. It was
$40 more.
Visit this link
(at bottom of page) for more info
|
|
alternator
|
A127 Lucus alternator
|
Straight swap (NO mods required)
from most Rover, Metros and
Montegos
Visit Ashley
Meson's page for details
|
|
alternator
|
Bosch alternator
(from 78-80 Ford Fiesta for
example)
|
Many Bosch altenators are a straight swap for the lucas one. It is more reliable, widely available and cheap (second hand). The mounting and even the connector are the same. Sometimes you have to use the old fanblade (easy to change). Be carefull with very heavy types (high amp)
Minor changes need to be made to
alternator's pulley and fan blades
|
|
alternator
|
Ford Mustang
|
I used a Chevy alternator
arm/bracket
|
|
alternator
|
Nippondenso 65A alternator
|
Upgrade your alternator to a Nippondenso 65amp unit from a Nissan 300ZX. Visit Scott
Davis' link for more info.
|
|
General Dash parts
(Hazard switch/warning lamp assembly
and Brake warning lamp assembly)
|
Triumph TR-6
|
Many Triumph parts were shared with
similar year cars.
|
|
flasher
|
552 flasher
|
Any standard 552 heavy duty hazard
warning flasher. It's round instead of
square - but still fits in the
bracket.
|
|
flasher (turn signal flasher)
|
1977-1980 chevy luv truck
|
It has three prongs use the on two
on the outside.
|
|
generator
(Mk1-3, GT6 MkI)
|
7127 GM Alternator
|
Visit Dan
Canaan's page (on a 68 MkIII) or
the visit
VTR page for details
|
|
generator
|
Lucus alternator from Mk4 or
1500
|
Visit Gary
Schlosser's page for details
|
|
headlights
|
halogen lamps
|
See link
for more info.
|
|
horns |
Rover 600 / Honda Accord |
I have fitted Rover 600ti horns to my Spitfire. They are made of hard black plastic so they won't rust. The Rover mounting brackets can be used on the Spifire without modification. |
|
ignition switch wiring plugs
|
1971 Oldsmobile Firenza
|
the 5 pin socket ignition switch
wiring plugs are identical to the
Spit
|
|
starter (GT6, possibly all)
Will not fit LHD Spitfires...steering column rubs
|
1989 Isuzu Trooper II 2.6 liter
part # 17155 or 16878
|
The swap was a physical bolt on. The
Isuzu costs $72.99 (Autozone) with a
life time warranty. You do have to
change some wiring to bypass the
original Starter Solenoid Wiring. Moved
the original "solenoid to starter wire"
to the upper lug on the Lucas solenoid
and extended the original white/red
"Ignition switch to Solenoid" wire to
the solenoid on the new starter.
Basically, I am using the old solenoid
as a junction block. GT6
photo
1989 Isuzu Trooper II 2.6 liter part
number 17155 (best fit but may no
longer be available) or 16878 (larger
body than 17155)
See this
link for very detailed info.
|
|
starter (GT6, possibly all)
|
pre 75 Volvo
(year?, model?)
|
Don't remember what year (pre 75)
starter we used but it bolted right in
with no wiring changes. My local parts
supplier has three buildings of British
parts and other foreign parts so I
think they just kept trying different
starters till they found one that
fit. Let us know if someone has more info.
|
|
starter solenoid (all)
|
Ford solenoid from Mustang or
F100
|
$6.50 as opposed to $25
|
back
to top
Drivetrain/Trans
|
part
|
replacement
|
notes
|
|
clutch master cylinder cap |
2000 Chevy Cavalier cap |
A really nice looking cap for your master clutch reservoir. A 2000 Chevy Cavalier fits perfect and it has specs written on it "use DOT 3 or better". Fits my 1972 Spitfire. |
|
differential ring and pinion
|
TR7 ring and pinion (3.63:1)
|
TR7 4 Speed diff's ring and pinion
(3.63:1) has the same part number in
the factory manual that the European
Spitfire used. Essentially meaning that
you would be able to attain a 3.63
ratio by using TR7 ring and pinion in
the Spit's housing
|
|
Spitfire differential
|
GT6 differential
|
Direct replacement for Spit diff -
has 3.63:1 ratio as in TR-7 but easier
than replacing ring & pinion. Revs
1,000 RPM lower for same highway speed.
(Speedo shows 10 MPH lower for same
rev's)
|
|
GT6 or Spitfire differential
|
Datsun or Subaru R160 Limited-slip
differential
|
very difficult with much fabriating
and welding
See this
link for more info
|
|
gearbox (GT6)
|
Triumph Dolomite
|
direct bolt in, need to use the
Dolomite clutch plate. Stronger
transmission than original
transmissions.
|
|
gearbox (GT6 and Spitfire)
|
5 speed 2T Toyota gearbox
|
Kit
available from Conversion
Components Limited out of New Zealand.
Custom made bellhousing.
|
|
gearbox (1500)
|
MG Midget Mk IV
|
Gearboxs can be interchangeable (if
the correct rear housing is fitted that
will take both sorts of mountings), but
the gearset is entirely different -
being a modified Marina 1300 set. All
the other gearbox parts are
interchangeable ie hubs, synchro rings,
bearings, forks. The same genius who
decided on the engine part numbers was
probably in charge at this point - take
the mainshaft, the Triumph version has
a hole in for a ball bearing to lock
the thrust in place that fits under
second gear, the MG version doesn't -
brilliant planning making virtually
identical parts in different factories
under two different part numbers and
was probably part of the reason for
British Leyland's problems.
|
|
gearbox (Spitfires)
|
overdrive gearbox
|
Straight swap, however due to the
added length of overdrive, you will
also need the shorter drive shaft that
originally came with the OD trans and
new rear trans mounts
|
|
gearbox mounting
|
Isuzu Trooper
|
3.2duty, LWB, V6, 24 valve Petrol, K
reg (1992)
|
|
Overdrive solenoid
|
Volvo or Ford solenoid
|
All J type solenoids are
interchangeable so Volvo and Ford ones
will also work
|
|
Universal Joints (drive &
diff)
|
Volvo 140 UJs
|
Much cheaper, easily available and
Swedish quality
|
back
to top
Brakes,
Suspension & Wheels
|
part
|
replacement
|
notes
|
|
anti-roll bar (pre 1973
Spitfires)
|
anti- roll bar (73 and up)
|
73-up cars have a larger front
anti-roll bar (approximately 15/16 inch
instead of 11/16 inch) which, while not
as good as a one-inch aftermarket bar,
is a cheap junkyard upgrade.
|
|
beauty rings (wheel trim rings)
|
Dodge Omni or Plymouth Horizon
(TC3)
and
Ford Escort & Mercury Tracer
|
Wheel trim rings (beauty rims) will fit Spitfire's stock 13" wheels perfectly. I bought 4 beautiful ones, $20 salvage yard. Its an alternative to Moss,Vic, TRF. etc.
|
|
brakes (GT6 front calipers)
|
TR-6 front calipers
|
TR6 calipers up to CC81078 (1972)
are identical to GT6's through mid
72
TR6 calipers from CC81079 are identical
to GT6 calipers from mid 72 to 73
|
|
brakes (GT6/TR6 front calipers)
|
1979-83 Toyota four wheel drive
pickup
|
With some mods the Toyota calipers
fit TR6's. Since TR6 calipers fit GT6
then the Toyota ones should also fit.
Visit
link to VTR site for
conversion.
This
link shows them being installed on
GT6 .
|
|
brakes (Spitfire front
calipers/suspension)
|
GT-6's stronger front discs,
vertical link, calipers and hubs
|
Straight swap but must use
everything between the A-arms. Not sure
if they will fit all years but probably
safe to assume Mk1-2 GT6 fit Mk1-3 Spit
and Mk3 GT6 fit Mk4-1500
|
|
brakes (Spit front calipers)
|
70s Ford Escort (Euro)
|
Front brake calipers fits, but the
brake hose comes to different place, so
you have to change the hose: (from Opel
with "banjo type" fitting) to clear the
suspension parts when turning the
wheels.
|
|
brakes (front caliper pistons and
rebuild kit)
Spitfire 1967-80
|
Jensen Healey, Delorian, Porsche
911S & Carrara, Morgan +4 &
4/4
|
According to this Morgan
site the caliper piston 32320329
and rebuild kit SP2697 are also used on
the following cars:
Jensen Healey; the rear of the
Delorian; Spitfire (67-80); Porsche
911S (74-77), Carrara (72-75), 911SC
(77-on), Morgan +4 and 4/4 (61-85). The
calipers are different.
|
|
brakes (front caliper pistons and
rebuild kit)
GT6 1968-73
|
Capri, Austin Healey 3000, Delorian,
TR4-6, Morgan +8
|
According to this Morgan
site the caliper piston 64321880
and rebuild kit SP2589 are used on West
German Capri 2000, Morgan +8 (68-7/78)
2300, 2600 (71-74), 2.3 & 2.8 Litre
(75-78); Austin Healey 3000s (64-67) if
replacement calipers are installed; GT6
(68-73); TR4 thru TR 6 (65-76) if
replacement calipers are installed.
The calipers are different.
|
|
brake assembly (rear)
|
GT-6's stronger brakes
|
Straight swap. You need from the
backing plate out (drums, shoes,wheel
cylinders, etc.)
|
|
brake drum pin & spring set
|
70s Ford Escort, Sierra kit
|
Pin and spring kit for all years
Spitfire/GT6 drum brake - Autogem BHK38
Brake Shoe Fitting Kit for Ford Escort,
Sierra.
|
|
brake pads (MkIII-1500)
|
70s Ford Escort MkI (non US)
|
brake pads from Rimmer Brothers is
labelled "for Ford Escort MK 1"
Straight swap
|
|
brake pads (MkIII-1500)
|
Volvo 140
|
Straight swap
|
|
brake pads (MkIII-1500)
|
Volvo 240 (rear)
|
Stock Volvo pads from local Volvo
dealer (fitment is REAR pads for 240's
with Girling rear brakes). Major
improvement! Lighter pedal feel, much
better bite! One thing, don't use the
black mastic anti-vibration pads that
come with them, just use the aluminum
shims. The mastic pads make the pedal
feel squishy, and taking them out made
no difference in the amount of brake
noise - there is none either way. They
were about $30 for the set.
|
|
brake pads (GT6) |
Datsun 240Z |
- |
|
brake light switch
|
Austin Metro
|
Exactly the same part, so straight
swap, no modifications needed. Cheap
new and abundant in scrapyards.
|
|
brake light switch
|
73 Chevy Nova switch
|
Go to ANY Auto Parts store and ask
for a 73 (non-cruise control) Chevy
Nova switch. They make two, one that is
metal and the other is plastic. Less
than $10.00. It works great but you do
need to shave off part of the threads,
like it is on the OEM unit, so it will
fit.
|
|
brake light switch
|
Datsun 310
|
Brake light switch fits without
modification
|
|
brake light switch
|
1977-1981 Chevy Luv Truck
|
Direct replacement but will have to
crimp new ends on it.
|
|
hubs (rear)
|
Dolomites and Marinas
|
Dolomites and Marinas used the same
hub
|
|
lug bolts
|
7/16" x 20 studs (Mercury Capri
)
|
Dorman part # 610-175 or Balkamp's
(from NAPA) part # BK641-1063(R)
|
|
lug bolts
|
7/16" lugs
|
Some machining required. Visit
this
link for machining requirements
& photos.
This link
also has some info.
(WHEEL-TITE brand, part #28020)
|
|
lug bolts
|
70s Ford Escort, Cortina studs
|
Ford Escort, Cortina etc. studs fit
straight to Spitfire hubs without any
modifications.
|
|
lug bolts
m12x1.5
|
2004 Land R Freelander front |
part# CLP9037L
same head and shank as original, 1/2 inch longer.
Great for alloy wheels, much stonger than original
|
|
master cylinder
|
Datsun 510
|
The flare fittings are metric, so I
had to cut the end of the brake lines,
then re-flared them with metric
fittings. The master cylinder used the
same bolt pattern, so there was no
problem bolting it in. The Datsun MC is
designed to sit level in the car but
have had no trouble with the Spit's
angle.
|
|
master cylinder
|
Toyota Tercel (US)
|
had to modify mounting bracket and
add metric fittings
|
|
master cylinder
|
TR7
|
Same size, angle etc. But the TR7
used a larger pipe and pipe fitting.
The flare was cut off. A suitable
'large' fitting was substituted for
'small' pipe for $1.
|
|
shocks (rear)
|
13.5 Harley-Davidson Motorcycles
|
Remove bushings from Harley shocks replace with 3/4 inch long pieces of heater hose. With 5/8 inch diameter. This will raise the rear of the car up by about 1.5 inches to get rid of the sag common on the spit. Did this on my 1977 1500 worked great cost $25 including shipping on ebay. Most Harely owners remove these as soon as the get dirty or to lower their bikes cheap and plentiful.
The ones I purchased were for a 2004-05 XL model with 13.5 eyelet to eyelet measurement. Most motor cycle shocks that measurer 13.5 to 14.5 would work as long as they have eyelets on each end. This raised my rear end up by a little over 1.75 inches. The Harely have a little larger eyelet opening than most Asian cycles but they still could be used. I even installed a pair to lower my Yamaha 750 down by 3/4 of an inch last year (required a thin steel bushing do to hole size difference). The 77 Spitfire drives better and now sits almost level since installation.
|
|
shocks (rear)
|
62-78 Corvette
Monroe MA-785
1980 Corvette
Gabriel (Auto Zone Part# 49304)
|
you need to take the old mounting
grommets & washers from the top of
the old shocks & use them on the
new ones (different size) Visit
VTR
page for details
|
|
springs (front, US 1500)
|
Mk3 Springs (214144)
|
Gave me back the phenomenal handling
and stability Spitfires were world
renowned for.
The 214144 early spring is rated at
150lbs rather than the later TKC1884
being rated at 180lbs. Visit Paul's
website for details.
|
|
springs (Spitfire front)
|
springs (GT6 front)
|
GT6 front springs with one coil cut
off work well on a Spitfire
|
|
wheel bearings
|
Spitfire
|
TR6 front wheel bearings are the
same as Spitfire
|
|
wheel bearings
|
GT6
|
GT6 front wheel bearings are the
same as the Stag. Victoria British and
Moss use their own part numbers so you
can't tell from those catalogs but if
you look up the factory part numbers it
shows they are the same. GT6 and Stag
share the same front outer wheel
bearings as the MGB, MGC and MGBGT.
|
|
wheels
|
-
|
see the wheels
page for more info about other
brands/cars that fit
Spitfires/GT6's
|
|
wheels
|
1986-89 DeLorean
|
These are 14" rims that fit on the
Spitfire. They are fit the rear well
but are too wide for the front (they
hit the frame)
|
|
wheels (early Spitfire)
|
late Spitfire
|
All Spitfires used the same bolt
pattern (3.75"). Late Spitfire wheels,
at 4.5" or 5" (1980) wide will fit
early Spits.
|
|
wheels
|
TR7
|
5.5" wide with same bolt pattern and
offset.
Note: TR7 wheels are hubcentric
(centered on the hubs) and Spitfire
hubs do not allow this. It is a good
idea to countersink the lug holes 1/16
inch to better accept the Spitfire's
stock tapered lug nuts.
Check out this link for more info
|
|
wheels
|
MGF wheels
|
MGF alloys are a direct swap, exact
same PCD (3.75") and Offsets, they look
good too
|
|
wheels
|
Rover Metros and Montegos wheels
|
Straight swap & are 14" in
diameter
|
|
wheels
|
Austin Marina and early Lotus
|
Marina's and Lotus's used the same
bolt pattern
|
back
to top
Body/Exterior
|
part
|
replacement
|
notes
|
|
antenna (roundtail Spits)
|
Toyota Hilux 89-on (Australia)
|
Fits rear RH or LH quarter panel
clear of the wheel arch. Curve of the
antenna match identical to Spitfire
4
|
|
bonnet stay
|
gas struts
Rover 214 (or 214i)
or
Monroe: 901002 - PB
|
My bonnet holder upper broke -
rather than fix it I had recommended to
me using 2x gas struts from above car.
One on each side, mounting on the wheel
arch (holes already drilled) and the
chassis angle bracket for mounting the
valances (you'll need to knock
something up with angle iron here).
Works a treat and the bonnet will just
about hold its own weight in any
position.
See
link for details.
|
|
bumpers (rubber 79-80 Spit)
|
chrome bumpers
|
Yes, it is possible but front is not a straight swap. Details to come.
|
|
rear bumper (75-79 Spit)
|
-
|
I removed the rubber "bullets" and
the large center bumper cover and found
a perfect bumper underneath. The bumper
has holes but the can be filled with
chrome bumper bolts from any 60's
car
|
|
bumper uprights (early cars)
|
Standard Vanguard 1961
|
-
|
|
doors
|
Mk3 GT6 doors will fit Mk4-1500
Spitfires and visa versa
|
GT6 doors' vents add much needed cooling to the cockpit, especially when the hardtop was in place. Interior parts of the door are different.
|
|
door strikers (early Spitfires and
GT6's)
|
Austin Healey door strikers
|
they are the same as are used on
several earlier Austin Healey's.
|
|
window waist seals |
86 Toyota Tercel |
Much more substantial. Hold window tightly. Use inside and outside. Cut down to fit. |
|
fender trim "bead" |
door edge protectors |
Black door edge protectors from Walmart can be substituted for the missing upper fender trim on later model Spits. One package does one fender perfectly. $2.66 per fender. |
|
firewall/throttle linkage bushings (GT6 MkI) |
refrigeration compressor feet |
The holes on eather side of firewall where the throttle linkage comes through the sheet metal. These rubber feet or vibration dampers from a 1/4 or 1/3 hp compressor are great replacements and are better than the set I ordered that were too hard to get into position (I even tried to heat them up to make them go into the holes to no avail. The compressor feet fit tight and with a little lube (silicone spray) every once and a while the will last a long time. |
|
front running/turn signals lenses
(under bumper)
|
same as on MG's
|
from FH78674 on
under front bumpers
|
|
fuel filler hose
|
Full size mid '90s Dodge Trucks
Part#52127832
|
The diameter of the hose is the same
and material is gas resistant. Just cut
to proper length.
|
|
hardtop (MkIV)
|
1500
|
Mk IV and 1500 hardtops are
interchangeable
|
|
headlights (1500)
|
Volvo Amazon/Volvo 140
|
Fit straight on. Cut off the back
side of the original Spit rubber cup
and you can change H4 bulbs without
removing the complete lamp.
|
|
luggage rack (1500)
|
same as on TR6's
|
The same 6 slat rack was used on
TR6
|
|
rear number plate light (round tail
Spits & GT6's)
|
various British cars
|
AC Cobra
Austin A30/35/40/90, Mini
Austin-Healey 100-4, 100-6, 3000,
Sprite through 1969
Daimler SP250
Hillman Minx
Kit Cars such as Cobra & MG replica
cars and many, many others
MG TD/TF, MGA, Midget through 1969,
European spec MGB w/dual number plate
lamps
Morgan 4/4, 1951-67
Morris Minor, Mini
Rover 75, Landrover 2/3 1963-74
Singer 1951-56
Triumph TR3, Herald, Vitesse, GT6 &
Spitfire through 1969
|
|
rear license plate lamps (US
Mk4-1500)
|
old Toyota or Nissan
|
Chrome or painted version available
from wreckers. Cost $2.50 to $5 instead
of $35 for original. Bolt spacing is
1/4" wider than original, but holes in
body can be filed slightly oblong to
accommodate.
|
|
chrome rear license plate lamps (MkIV and early 1500) |
black rear license plate lamps (late1500) |
I found this out purely by accident. I decided to repaint the license plate lamps on my 78 Spitfire. I liked the chrome ones on the 77 model but I was being frugal and figured I'd just paint to old ones.
I started cleaning the old ones and lo and rehold,I started seeing chrome underneath. Looks like they were just painted over with black paint at the factory. I used lacquer thinner and the lamps are now shiny. |
|
Rear Turn Signal bulb sockets
|
1971 Oldsmobile Firenza bulb
sockets
|
-
|
|
Rear Turn Signals (Round tail
cars)
|
MGA, Morgan +4 & 4/4, TR3
|
According to this Morgan
site the Stop (Tail) lights, Lucas
53330 - Model 549, of roundtail
Spitfires were also used on Morgan+4
& 4/4 (59-68), TR 3s, and MGAs
|
|
Rear Turn Signals (Square tail
cars)
|
same as on "square tail" Stag's
|
Straight swap on "square tail"
Spits
|
|
Rubber Cowl Seal
|
Universal (weather seal)
|
Use 3/8" or 5/16" black bubble
seal,to replace (oem) full width cowl
seal. Cut to size, presses right on.
Gives a better watertight seal. Also
use it to seal left & right front
fender seals AND on top of window glass
(L&R) makes a better seal against
the hardtop. An easy-on (more
effective) replacement.
I bought mine at 'ZIEBART' Co. OR NAPA.
ETC. for $10.00 (20ft) approx.
|
|
Seat upolstery
|
Office Max office chairs
|
Use leather upolstery off chairs on
74-80 front seats. $30 / seat after
rebates. Does not cover head rests and
only comes in black :-)
|
|
side marker plint (rubber holding
chrome finisher and side lights)
(Mk4-1500 Spits and Mk3 GT6)
|
MG Midget 71+ (rear fenders
only)
|
Not a perfect match but Spit part is
no longer made. Midget parts are flat
and Spits are slightly thicker at
bottom to compensate for body
curvature.
see
photo
|
|
Tail light mounting gasket (round
tail Spits)
|
58-61 Bugeye sprite
|
This is the gasket that goes between
the body and the light assembly. The
only difference is the mounting holes.
Victoria British part # 8-822 Gasket
rear stop / tail.
|
|
windshield (Mk1-Mk3 Spitfires and
Mk1-Mk2 GT6 only)
|
TR4/4A, TR5/250, TR6 1961-75
|
All these cars used the same
windshield
|
|
windshield (Mk4-1500)
|
GT6 Mk3
|
Mk4-1500 Spitfires and Mk3 GT6
windshields are interchangeable
|
|
windshield wiper stalk gasket
|
Lawn hose inner "O" ring
|
Tired of water running into your car at the body around the wiper? I used a garden hose O ring to fix the problem. You will have to take the wiper arm off and the nut and cover.
|
|
Windscreen washer jet |
Rover 600 /Allegro |
I have an Austin Allegro water jet pump that feeds Rover 600 dual port nozzel jets. So I get 4 streams of water to clean the screen. |
|
windshield water pump
|
Nissan e.g. 1990 Cherry
|
The original 1500 windscreen washer
pump was used in some Nissans
|
bumper notes:
|
Spitfire bumpers
|
Mk's I&II to Mk3
and
Rubber 1500's to Chrome
|
Round tail:
Mk II and Mk III front bumpers
are not interchangeable due to
different mounting points. Mk1 &
MkII bumpers have notches cut out of
them that the MkIII's don't. Mk I and
II which are interchangeable.
Rear bumpers will fit with some
modifications, but keep in mind that Mk
I and II cars had vertical sections to
the bumpers where as Mk III models did
not. There is a tail light lens in the
location where the vertical bumper
section would be on the Mk III's. So
you can put Mk III bumpers on any Mk I
through Mk III, but you cannot put the
Mk I or II rear bumpers on a Mk
III.
1500:
While possible, it does require cutting
and welding (the bonnet mounting points
are different and must be swapped
also)
The rear bumpers of 1500's are a
straight swap.
|
back
to top
Interior/Cockpit
|
part
|
replacement
|
notes
|
|
Dashboard Clock
|
Morris Marina / Ital
|
Get a GT6 Passenger dash panel with
the air vent cut out. The Hole is
exactly the right size for a Smiths
automotive clock. There are many
different styles to choose from, go
browse your nearest scrapyard. P.S. My
dash clock keeps very good time!
|
|
door seals
|
late-model Hyundai Excel
|
Don't want to pay for "furflex"
factory type door weatherstripping? Go
to a junk yard and look for Hyundai's.
Cost--about $10 for enough to do a
complete car, and if you get a late
enough model, it will look just like
new (without the furflex of
course)!
|
|
door seals |
late 90's Chevrolet S-10 pickup |
I used a set of late 90's door seals from an S-10 to replace my worn out seals. Just cut to length needed and press on. I have a hard top and each door did enouth to cover everything side to side with some left over and stopped most of the drafts (like anything will ever stop them all), works as good as when new. |
|
door seals |
from JC Whiney
Part# SJ819909N
|
$17.99 ea, will need two (2) Flexible black rubber, much better then the cloth seals, and cheaper |
|
GT6+ MK2 Ignition lock
|
MGB
|
"I bought an Ignition lock slated
for 1968 MGB and it was perfect match
for my 1970 GT6. Modification is only
to remove the switch from it using the
single set screw and swapping for
mine... perfect fit!!! (you must drill
the shear bolts from old switch to
remove from steering column, better
done with column removed from
car.)"
|
|
hand brake grip
|
MG Maestro
|
The original hand brake grip is not
very good. A much nicer black
plasticized rubber grip is fitted to
the Meastro. To remove wait for a very
hot day at the scrapyard and pull and
wriggle till off it comes. Shorten grip
by 1 cm. Heat with boiling water and
slide over Spitfire hand brake. Result:
hand brake now has a luxury feel.
|
|
rev counter
|
Austin Apache TC
|
The Apache's distributor uses
electronic ignition and is a much
better distributor than the AC Delco
one originally fitted to Spitfires. It
does not have the mechanical tacho
drive needed for MkI to III
Spitfires.
|
|
speedo/tach rubber gasket
|
garden pond pump gasket
|
The large rubber gasket that goes
between the tack/speedo and the dash
can be substituted with gaskets from
pond pumps. These parts found in the
gardending section at Home Depot type
stores.
|
|
upper steering column bush (nylon
type)
|
any Mini
|
its the same size & fits ok
|
|
upper steering column bush (nylon
type)
|
neoprene faucet washers from any
hardware store
|
The center hole is too small and
will need to be drilled to fit the 1/4"
bolt.
|
|
steering wheel/column parts (77-80
Spitfire)
|
TR7 used a lot of the same parts
|
from FH100020 on
|
|
seat belts
|
Rover Metro
|
Should fit in with little or no
modifications.
|
|
seats
|
Mazda Miata/ MX-5 Eunos Mk1 seats
|
Modifications are required. Two
approaches: making interface brackets
and modifying existing brackets:
Dave's
page for brackets, Geof's
page, and for modifying.
Paul's
site shows dimensions of Miata
& Spitfire seats. Note: Original
tonneau still fits.
|
|
seats
|
Pontiac Fiero seats
|
quite a few modifications are
required but they fit side to side
|
|
seat reclining handle
|
MG door handle
|
from FH50000 on
|
back
to top
Other
Sites:
Lotus Super Seven used many Spitfire
parts. Click
here to see which.
Also Lotus Europa. Click
here. Elan, click
here.
Morgan
site listing some parts that work on
Spit/GT6's (mostly hydraulic)
Special thanks to Keith May for his constant
help with this page
Return
to Reference Page |